A building permit must be obtained prior to the installation of fireplaces, wood or coal burning stoves. They must be inspected by the local building inspector prior to their initial use as required by the Massachusetts State Building Code.

Installation guidelines described on this page have been provided by the National Fire Protection Association. The NFPA standards are the basis for many local codes.

Wood or Coal Cooking Stove

Locate wood or coal cooking stoves a minimum of 36 inches from unprotected woodwork and other combustible materials or furniture or 18 inches from non-combustible walls. The addition of a heat shield or other protective devices, to the wall or the stove, allows a reduction of those distances by 50% allowing for an installation 18 inches from a combustible wall and 9 inches from a noncombustible wall. The wood-burning stove needs to be vented through a class-A, double-walled chimney.

Gas or Propane Cooking Stoves

An antique cooking stove that has been set up with gas does not require any clearance space. The stove is completed insulated and emits no heat. These stoves do not need to be vented. Set ups to Propane (LPG) and Natural Gas available on all models.

Electric Cooking Stoves

A cook stove with an electric set up does not require any clearance space. The stove is completed insulated and emits no heat. These stoves do not need to be vented. Set ups include standard 220 Volts, 50 AMPS.

Contact us for more information at 413-268-3677 or by filling out our contact form.

Installation guidelines described on this page provided by the National Fire Protection Association. The NFPA standards are the basis for many local codes.

Wood or Coal Heating Stoves
Wood-burning stoves must be located a minimum of 36 inches from unprotected woodwork and other combustible materials or furniture or 18 inches from non-combustible walls. The addition of a heat shield or other protective devices, to the wall or the stove, allows a reduction of those distances by 50%. This allows for an installation 18 inches from a combustible wall and 9 inches from a noncombustible wall. Wood-burning stoves needs to be vented through a class-A, double-walled chimney.

Gas or Propane Heating Stoves
An antique heating stove with a gas conversion must conform to the clearances for a wood-burning stove (above). The converted heating stove needs to be vented. This is done through a class-B, single-walled chimney. Set ups to Propane (LPG) and Natural Gas available on all models. With a gas conversion the total BTU ranges from 20,000 to 35,000.

Electric Heating Stoves
The electric converted heating stove does NOT need to be vented. 5,000 watt or 18,000 BTUs. 220 volt. 30 amp.

Contact us for more information at 413-268-3677 or by filling out our contact form.

Flue
Solid fuel heating appliances cannot share a common flue with chimney flues utilized by other solid fuel, fossil fuel or gas fire appliances.

Dampers
Check that the damper is open before lighting the fire. Failure to do so can result in an accumulation of of smoke and carbon monoxide in the home. Do not close the damper before the fire has died out and the embers are cold.

Inspection by Qualified Mason
Have the chimney and flue inspected by a qualified mason prior to use. Cracks in the flue or mortar joints can allow flames and heated gases to extend into the structure.

Adapted from the American National Standard ANSI/NFPA 2 1 1, Feb. 1984

Smoke Alarms
Install and maintain smoke and carbon monoxide detectors to provide protection for your family.

Fire Extinguishers
Consider the following three questions before purchasing or using a fire extinguisher to control a fire:

1. What type of fire extinguisher is needed?

Different types of fires require different types of extinguishers. For example, a grease fire and an electrical fire require the use of different extinguishing agents to be effective and safely put the fire out. Basically, there are five different types of extinguishing agents. Most fire extinguishers display symbols to show the kind of fire on which they are to be used. There are also multi-purpose fire extinguishers – such as those labeled “B-C” or “A-B-C” – that can be used on two or more of the below type fires.

Types of Fire Extinguishers

1. Class A extinguishers put out fires in ordinary combustible materials such as cloth, wood, rubber, paper, and many plastics.     Ordinary Combustibles
2. Class B extinguishers are used on fires involving flammable liquids, such as grease, gasoline, oil, and oil-based paints.     Flammable Liquids
3. Class C extinguishers are suitable for use on fires involving appliances, tools, or other equipment that is electrically energized or plugged in.     Electrical Equipment
4. Class D extinguishers are designed for use on flammable metals and are often specific for the type of metal in question. These are typically found only in factories working with these metals.     Combustible Metals

Class K fire extinguishers are intended for use on fires that involve vegetable oils, animal oils, or fats in cooking appliances. These extinguishers are generally found in commercial kitchens, such as those found in restaurants, cafeterias, and caterers. Class K extinguishers are now finding their way into the residential market for use in kitchens. Combustible Cooking

2. Is the fire at a point where it might still be controlled by a fire extinguisher?

Portable fire extinguishers are valuable for immediate use on small fires. They contain a limited amount of extinguishing material and need to be properly used so that this material is not wasted. For example, when a pan initially catches fire, it may be safe to turn off the burner, place a lid on the pan, and use an extinguisher. By the time the fire has spread, however, these actions will not be adequate. Only trained firefighters can safely extinguish such fires.

Use a fire extinguisher only if:

• You have alerted other occupants and someone has called the fire department.
• The fire is small and contained to a single object, such as a wastebasket.
• You are safe from the toxic smoke produced by the fire.
• You have a means of escape identified and the fire is not between you and the escape route.
• Your instincts tell you that it is safe to use an extinguisher.

If all of these conditions are not present, you should NOT try to use a fire extinguisher. Alert other occupants, leave the building following your home escape plan, go to the agreed upon meeting place, and call the fire department from a cell phone or a neighbor’s home.

3. Am I physically capable of using the extinguisher?

Some people have physical limitations that might diminish or eliminate their ability to properly use a fire extinguisher. People with disabilities, older adults, or children may find that an extinguisher is too heavy to handle or it may be too difficult for them to exert the necessary pressure to operate the extinguisher.

Maintenance & Training

• The extinguisher is not blocked by furniture, doorways, or any thing that might limit access in an emergency.
• The pressure is at the recommended level. Some extinguishers have gauges that indicate when the pressure is too high or too low.
• All parts are operable and not damaged or restricted in any way. Make sure hoses and nozzles are free of insects or debris. There should not be any signs of damage or abuse, such as dents or rust, on the extinguisher.
• The outside of the extinguisher is clean. Remove any oil or grease that might accumulate on the exterior.
• Shake dry chemical extinguishers once a month to prevent the powder from settling or packing. Check the manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Pressure test the extinguisher (a process called hydrostatic testing) after a number of years to ensure that the cylinder is safe to use. Find out from the owner’s manual, the label, or the manufacturer when an extinguisher may need this type of testing.

Immediately replace the extinguisher if it needs recharging or is damaged in any way.

Sound Decision Making, Training, and Maintenance are required to safely control a fire with an extinguisher. For this reason, USFA recommends that only those trained in the proper use and maintenance of fire extinguishers consider using them when appropriate. Contact your local fire department for information on training in your area.

*Information taken from US Fire Administration: http://www.usfa.fema.gov

The 36″ clearance between the stove and combustibles can be reduced considerably if the walls and ceilings are protected with mineral fiber, masonry, or 24 gauge sheet metal spaced out 1 inch from the combustible wall. The space allows air to circulate behind the panel to cool the wall. The spacers must be made of non-combustible material, such as a stack of washers, small diameter pipe, electrical conduit or tubing. Ceramic fence insulators, stacked washers, or a small-diameter pipe will work well, but don’t use copper or aluminum because it will conduct too much heat. Click here for a chart of the National Fire Protection Association’s suggestions for wall protection.

Nail or screw the panel to the wall studs through the hole in the center of the spacer. Use a screw and spacer every 16 inches horizontally and vertically, but do not use any directly behind the stove or connector. Mount the panel 2 inches off the floor, leaving the top and bottom edges open to allow for air circulation.

Adapted from the American National Standard ANSI/NFPA 2 1 1, Feb. 1984